14 March, 2001 last update

So... You want to train your Golden Retriever for the Working Certificate (WC) Test

GREAT! Here are some WC tips, for those of you who do not have an experienced field person to guide you. You can do alot of this yourself, if you are willing to read and listen and also, learn from your dog's reactions at each point in the training.

START by READING
Go to the GRCA web site at www.grca.org and download the WC/WCX rules and regulations.

Next, get yourself a copy of Training Retriever for Marshes and Meadows, by Jim Spencer, new edition. Also, there's a small book devoted specifically to GRCA's Working Certificate test by Rutherford, Branstad and Wicker. (Alpine Books)
TRAINING EQUIPMENT
If you've done your 'homework' , you already have a good idea of what the WC requires. Here's a list of equipment, based on my own preferences:

HAT, two WHISTLES on a lanyard, rain gear, water-proof footgear;
WATER DISH, WATER supply for you and doggie (even in winter);
SILVER-SIDED TARP, plus other ways to keep vehicle cool in hot weather;
DOG CRATE --second choice, but not ideal: tie-out line (instead of crate);

LONG PANTS, MOSQUITO REPELLANT SUNTAN LOTION, for you,
TICK & FLEA TREATMENT for doggie (applied/given monthly--e.g., 'Frontline') Sprays, etc. are not real effective.
WHITE shirts for throwers, two portable fold-up CHAIRS (stand-ins for throwers),
LEADS: flexi-lead, 6-ft canvas training lead, slip lead (~4 ft long);
FLAT-BUCKLE COLLAR for your doggie (w. center-ring, bright orange color)

BUMPERS : medium and/or large in size, in assorted colors (some black or gray or canvas, plus white and florescent orange.
ROPE: I like soft, braided poly line, slightly larger diameter than clothes line (available in boat stores). Use for slip leads and for throw ropes on bumpers (which are tossed underhand, up and out in an arc.)

OTHER SUPPLIES:
Band-aids, water-proof pen, florescent plastic tape (to mark locations/items).
Starter pistol and blanks (make sure their use permitted in the area).
Backpack/totebag, a couple of old wool socks (useful for icky dead pigeons), newspapers, plus a smile and a 'thank you" (when dead ducks available).
Padlock for your crate, spare keys for everything, a car alarm, maps;
Towel, pickup baggies, dog biscuits and human muncies, duck tape, and a VALID PERMIT where required (i.e., in wild life areas)

BEGIN with SINGLES
At first throw short, simple single marks (white bumpers on short grass).
Gradually increase the distance and add some scruffy cover. And switch to black, gray or dirty canvas bumpers. Don't stay with white--real birds don't look like that, although trash and paper can.

Ah, but let me add, there is an intermediate stage to teaching marking: The mark (bumper) is not visible from the line, but once your dogs gets into the area, they should spot it. (This will help develop marking ability, which is separate from learning to hunt/find/persevere). The other aspects to consider (besides cover and distance) are wind direction, terrain and obstacles when evaluating a training site.

Be sure to end each training session on a positive note and always stop while your dogs are still eager for more.

How does the AKC Junior Hunter test differ from the WC/WCX ?

The JH is more demanding. You'd have to set out decoys and maybe, a boat, manage your dog while carrying a shotgun and train using live-shot flyers at 100-yard distances in all sorts of situations and terrains, with your dog delivering to hand. You must qualify four times ($60 for each) to get the JH title.

None of that in the WC test. The land series is usually run in a fairly flat, open field with moderate cover, always from a fixed point (the line), with the gunners clearly visible (in white coats, 40-50 yards away). In New Jersey you'll get pheasants for the land double, but elsewhere it's usually dead pigeons on land and dead ducks (mallards invariably) on the water.

WATER MARKS
The WC water test is straight forward. Make sure your dogs will retrieve in open water, in wind, sitting on a bank, etc. A small, simple, park pond won't do. Be sure your dog swims and likes it before you do formally water training. Water is not a dog's natural habitat; you must always be on the alert for hazards.

In most parts of the country, places to do water work are hard to find, so plan accordingly. On Long Island, the Golden swimming season usually lasts from mid-April into mid-November. But, with puppies and inexperienced dogs, begin them in the warm weather, with you ready to splash and play with them.

Select your water sites carefully. You don't your dogs to cut the corners or take a land route out or back (called "bank running"). Your throws and the pond itself should encourage a straight-in entry and return. Marks should fall 25-35 yards away in light cover. Wherever possible, set up back-to-back singles in swimming water.

TAKE IT STEP by STEP
The trick is to stretch the dog beyond its present limits without losing it, to know what kind of help to give and when, etc. And THAT, of course, is a real artsy-science and a whole other story.

When do you introduce double marks?

Your dog should be doing well on single marks at 50-80 yards away, using bumpers landing in cover, BEFORE you move onto the WC land double.

DOUBLE MARKS
To teach the double: start with some sort of a barrier down the middle (or start with very, very wide-spaced marks.) You don't want your dog to go out, hunt the diversion (second-thrown) bird, then give up, turn away and go to the first mark instead. (This is called "switching") and is not allowed, even at the WC level). So, don't let it happen inadvertently. ,BR>

The backstop of a baseball diamond can be used, or a fence corner, to provide a barrier against switching when the doubles concept is first introduced. Next, move onto acut grass and then, to light/moderate cover, with two falls 90 degrees apart (or more, at the beginning of doubles training).

Later, as a final, important finishing step, train your dog not to switch, using a temptation. For example, make a bright white bumper the first (memory) mark).

BIRDS
Yes, do introduce your doggies to fresh-killed pigeons and fresh-killed ducks before the test. Begin with a coax and play session: move that dead bird around excitedly before tossing it. And of course, carefully introduce your dogs to gunfire.

Start with pigeons--most Goldens like them. But, do so in a CONTROLLED setting. You don't want your newbie dog to to run around excitedly, ignoring your command to come. And surely, you don't want your newbie to pluck some feathers or to try crunching one before you can catch-em. So, choose a confined space. Consider beginning w. frozen pigeons and maybe, attach a long line to the dog's collar.

Of course, a successful course in force fetching (and the recall) is the best guarrantee against mouth problems and disobedience. Jim Spencer does a great job explaining the force fetch, step by step.

TRAINING in a GROUP
Very helpul. And you do need people to throw marks. But, make sure your needs clear when you train with other people. Unless they are beginner-oriented and careful, you and your dog could end up attempting the wrong scenario. You don't want bank running, you don't want hidden gunners, you don't want obstacles or heavy cover. And, you don't want throwers to give too much help to your dogs in the field If the set-up is appropriate, your dog should almost always find the marks on its own, once it gets beyond the basics.
WHAT COMMANDS to TEACH for the WC:
'come' or 'here', 'sit', 'fetch', 'give' (preferable to 'drop it'), 'leave it' or 'enough', 'kennel', 'mark' , an end-of-exercise command ('ok' is not ideal) and some sort of an informal heel command (good enough to get your dog to the line on lead, without choking, shouting or barking!!)

Teach the 'come-in' to a whistle signal (TWEET, tweet, tweet is the standard whistle command to come in). Consider force fetching. Definitely, in the WC, your dog must bring the bird back directly w.o stopping to fool around or pee or put the bird down. You will probably not be allowed to help your dog verbally even after he/she gets to a mark--so, don't depend on 'get-it, get-it' or ' hold-hold-HOLD' as a substitute for thorough training.

The WC is NOT a difficult marking or memory test. After all, there are white-coated people out there doing the throwing. But your dogs must really want the birds (or tolerate them to please you). Sure...your untrained dogs may love chasing birds, but that's not the way we certify retriever talent.

TWO CAVEATS:
1. During the DEER season, never dog train, hike, etc. in any place you might conceivably find hunters. If you don't know whether rifle hunting is allowed in your area, bring yourself up to speed before you head out the door.

Upland game and water fowl hunters present fewer hazards, but remember that the shot gun pattern spreads out and carries well beyond hunting distance. And at any time of year, assume that your dog may well chase any deer it encounters and plan accordingly.

2. In terms of WATER work, know the current and what's underneath the surface before your dog goes in.

If, by chance, your dog is devilish, abit hard-headed and not yet well-trained, come prepared to jump in (a surprise correction will work wonders if done soon enough!). Or, else, wait til warmer weather and meantime, work on those recalls.

THERE'S FUN AHEAD, I PROMISE
And ribbons... because you can teach most any well-bred Golden to play the game YOUR way, provided you make it fun and fair and set limits. All the WC requires is a sporting attitude on both sides. Your job is to enthusiastically coach a promising kid. If birds turn out not to be her thing, there are other venues. Otherwise, grab some bumpers and take this natural athlete to the fields!

FOR NON-NEWBIES
Even if your dogs are real smart and advanced in other venues, still, I think you should teach them the WC in the standard way, as if they were young/newbies.

If you are already familiar with obedience work, then surely you know about proofing dogs, about taking small steps, about not tolerating independence, etc. So, to train for the WC, you just need to understand the task/test/rules. You already know the general principles of dog training. Good for you. It will be that much more enjoyable and easy!
DE-MYSTIFYING FIELD TERMS
For help with the specialized terms we use in the field, see the Field Vocabulary Primer that I wrote a couple of years ago, at Goldens in Cyberspace (primer) , part of Helen Redlus' great website (www.golden-retriever.com).

For more dogs, psychology, health, etc. (my other interests) take a gander at www.adelphi.edu/~hobson (my website) and at www.adelphi.edu/~hobson/dogtest.html (my dog page for Long Island).

Permisssion granted for personal use copies only.